Friday France Photo: Montignac
When you see the famous prehistoric paintings at the Lascaux Cave in Dordogne, you must purchase your tickets in the village of Montignac. (Ticket purchase is not available on-site.) You won’t feel inconvenienced by this because Montignac is beautiful and worth a stop to explore its two different areas located on both sides of the Vézère River. On the right bank, there’s a feudal town with medieval narrow streets with architecture from the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries. On the left bank, the suburb with a convent and priory is an indication that Montignac used to be a harbor town, a place of artisans, crafts, arts and other sell-able goods.
More information about Montignac is here (in French).
France Fears Plague of Mosquitoes in the South From the guardian:
“Authorities in southern France fear a possible mosquito invasion in tourist resorts this summer and blame EU regulations which prevent them from using the most efficient insecticide.
The area affected runs from the Camargue down to the Spanish border. Agents from the EID, the Entente interdépartementale de démoustication which clears thousands of hectares of marshland each year, say the new rules are forcing them to carry out this year’s operation in record time, and with no guarantee of success, following recent rain.
For the first time since the early 1960s they cannot use temephos - a pesticide now banned by the European Union. Instead the EID says it is obliged to turn to a bacterium considered to be more environment-friendly, but which experts argue leaves little margin for error….”
Read more
Friday France Photos: Mirepoix, France (not carrots, onions and celery)
After our excellent adventures in Carcassonne chez Patricia and Andre, we were advised to stop by the quaint medieval village of Mirepoix, in the heart of the Cathare region, on our way to Sarlat just a few weeks ago, so off we went. I’d wondered if Mirepoix was where the famous mirepoix culinary method of combining carrots, celery and onions and using them in French cooking was discovered. Nope. It wasn’t.
With its 13th century oak arcades framed around the marketplace lined with shops and cozy cafes and bakeries, Mirepoix is worth a quick looksee. This is one of the last remaining examples of an arcaded village in France.
Actually, Mirepoix is a bastide built around the main square and the houses date from the 13th to the 15th centuries.
One of the most visited attractions in Mirepois is the Maison des Consuls, which showcases arcaded rafters that are carved with hundreds of unique portrayals of gargoyles, monsters, animals and caricatures of medieval social groups and professions, as well as ethnic groups from all over the world.
Mirepoix is host to an annual puppet and doll festival that takes place on the 2nd week of August (for information, telephone 05 61 68 20 72).
Franco-American Conversations: That Lady is Totally American! 
We went out to lunch the other day to an excellent brasserie in Autun (Burgundy), which I’ll try to write about some time later this week, hopefully. The restaurant was pretty packed and for some reason, “the suits” were sitting on one side of the restaurant, everyone else scrunched over on the other side. Anyway, my adorable and funny sweetie suddenly bursts out, “That lady is TOTALLY American!!” (talking about a woman just exiting the restroom across the restaurant)
Me: “Why? How do you know?”
Him: “Because she has a kleenex over the doorknob because she doesn’t want to touch it directly……you know, like you.”
Me: “That doesn’t mean she’s American. That means she’s psychotically germophobic …like me. Hey, don’t generalize. Wait! They always do tests on doorknobs and they find POO on them! You don’t want to touch that in a restaurant, do you, then eat dinner?”
Him: “Ok, yeah, but you even wrote about American Germophobia, remember? Anyway, it’s an American thing. You can’t convince me otherwise.”
Me: “Oh yeah. I did write about that. Nevermind that, though.”
Me: “Omg. I just heard them talking and yes, that lady IS American.”
Him: “SEEE!?”
The Revival of Musette in France, At Least in Sarlat 
There’s an old comic strip by Gary Larson in “The Far Side” with two pictures. One shows a person receiving a harp with the caption, “Welcome to Heaven. Here’s your harp.” The other has a guy receiving an accordion with the text bubble saying, “Welcome to Hell. Here’s your accordion.” That is EXACTLY how I’ve felt about the merits of the accordion. However, there is a little tiny exception to my loathing of the accordion - accordions playing musette, which is a genre of French music from the 20s, 30s and 40s (being most popular in the 40s) - though it is a type of music I can only take in small doses. VERY small doses. It does have its own charm. Here’s a sample from youtube.
Sure, you can listen to musette walking along the fake cobble stones in the Paris Hotel in Las Vegas, if you can stand it over the cacophony of slot machines (don’t forget to buy a croissant for $10) - but I GUESS it’s probably better to be sipping coffee and people watching at an outdoor cafe somewhere in France with musette in the background. Luckily Today, I hardly ever hear musette in France…until just about a week ago in Sarlat (Southwest France in Dordogne).
Surprisingly, the music seemed to all come together and make sense, and it was fun to listen to. Maybe it was the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a jazz club’s “cave” in a medieval village. Maybe it was the company of good friends and a happy public. Maybe it was because we were in France. I dunno. In any case, the evening was filled with “musetty-jazz” fusion. Not strictly musette, it was a small, mostly jazz combo with the centerpiece instrument being an accordion. Of course when we initially entered the club and I saw the accordion, my first thought was Welcome to Hell!!
I’m glad I was wrong.
Is musette making a comeback? Would it have worked outside a stone wall lined cavern in a medieval village in Dordgogne, France?
I wonder.
Related Posts: from Sarlat
Get some music at Amazon: Musette de France
(3 CD Set)
Earth Day 2008 France 
Commemorating Earth Day today, which marks the anniversary of the birth of the environmental movement, I thought I’d post a photo in appreciation of nature. This is a photo of the Calanques in the south of France, not far from Cassis. I never did get around to writing about the Calanques - probably because I had so many photos to go through - but I’ll try to get to it…some time…this year 
Related: Earth Day - Take a deep breath and hear the sad story of mankind
Pick a Car, Any Car 
This parking lot sign has two messages. In French, you simply pay for parking at the machine before getting into your car. The English version is different. It starts out nicely and politely with the “Could you…” No question mark at the end though, but anyway. THEN! Lucky Anglophones, it gets even better for you. You see, if you speak English, when you come back to the parking lot, you get to PICK a car. Don’t want to get into your own car? TAKE another.
Awesome B&B in Carcassonne: Aux Anges Gardiens It just occurred to me that the bed and breakfast where we stayed in Carcassonne (southwest France) recently, was not only the first B&B we’ve stayed in in France, but it was also a real one, in the sense that you really are staying in someone’s house. In this case, you’re chez Patricia and Andre Ledu.
We loved it.
“Aux Anges Gardiens” means “With The Guardian Angels,” and you’ll feel like your guardian angels were watching over you when you selected this b&b as your home away from home while taking your holidays in Carcassonne.
Patricia and André fled a hectic lifestyle in Paris to embark on a completely new adventure with their B&B. They bought and embraced an 18th century “fixer upper,” took it under their wings and completely restored it. The result of their hard and thoughtful work is a warm, welcoming sanctuary where you’ll feel comfortable and cozy. The house and your hosts will quickly put you at ease and you’ll readily be able to settle in and feel at home. Aux Anges Gardiens is another one of those rare places where you’ll not want to leave.
The rooms are spacious and luxurious, and all have their own private bathroom, so you won’t have to share facilities with other guests in the house. You might be able to tell by the names of the rooms that this place is ideal for couples.
For example, we stayed in the room called, “la Chambre Nuptiale / The Honeymoon Suite” but you have other choices. Oui oui. How about “la Chambre Cocoon / The Love Nest” or the “la Chambre de Maitre / The Master Suite”? Does it sound like a perfect romantic getaway?
It is.
If you’re into more chill kinds of vacations, you will LOVE the patio and pool area at Aux Anges Gardiens. Grab some much needed French rays (remember your sunblock) out there, and laze to your heart’s content during your stay. You’ll be one happy B&B-er.
Since it is a real and true B&B, and we’ve talked about the first B (bed), you’ll be glad to know that the 2nd B, breakfast, is pure YUM. French coffee, fresh bread and baguettes from a nearby bakery, homemade jams, baked cakes made in-house, fruit, yogurt, fruit juices. The REAL breakfast of champions à la française.
Much like Après La Sieste in Provence, Aux anges gardiens is another ideal location that you’ll be able to use as a convenient base but in the region of Langedoc-Roussillon. The medieval city of Carcassonne is just minutes away. Drive or grab the bikes at Patricia and Andre’s to get there or to the neighboring lake. Nearby cities include: Toulouse, Perpignan, Narbonne, Montpellier, and if you have a couple of hours, you’re not very far from Barcelona. Just cross the border and you’ll be speaking Catalan in no time. On a semi-sidenote, from Carcassonne you’ll find really cheap flights to Ireland on Ryanair. I mean, really, really cheap (based on an advanced purchase): about 20 euros roundtrip. REALLY.
Back to the guardian angels. If you’re in the area for business or travel, consider staying at this absolutely fabulous B&B. You will not regret it.
Aux Anges Gardiens, Bed and Breakfast in Carcassonne
Open all year, highspeed internet, 3 rooms, breakfast included
Contact: Patricia et André Ledu (English, French spoken)
2 rue du Barry - hameau de Villalbe - Carcassonne - France
Tél. +33 (0)4 68 47 14 03 - cell .+33 (0)6 64 90 70 13
Email : floledu@aliceadsl.fr
Website: Aux Anges Gardiens, B&B in Carcassonne (more photos, rates and availability)
Tags: france, carcassonne, b&b, bed+and+breakfast, travel, ryanair
Quentin Tarantino will Give a Cinema Masterclass at Next Month’s Festival de Cannes From the festival of cannes website:
“Quentin Tarantino, who once declared having “devoted his life to cinema, his favourite obsession”, is to give the Cinema Masterclass at the coming Festival de Cannes, which takes place from May 14th to 25th 2008.
Following in the footsteps of Martin Scorsese in 2007, and also Stephen Frears, Nanni Moretti, Wong Kar Wai and Sydney Pollack, he will speak to an audience at the Festival about his professional experiences as a filmmaker and screenplay writer, with all the spark and enthusiasm for film we know and love him for.
First selected for the Festival, Out of Competition, with Reservoir Dogs in 1992, Quentin Tarantino won the Palme d’Or from the Jury presided by Clint Eastwood in 1994.
Quentin Tarantino was Jury President at the Festival in 2004, when Kill Bill 2 was presented Out of Competition.
He was back in Competition last year with Death Proof (Boulevard de la Mort-Un film Grindhouse).”
The Wii Ripoff in France via China - is called…Vii From kotaku:
“It’s spreading. To Europe. China’s Wii rip-off, the Vii, has apparently been reskinned for the French. This made in China machine plays six games (Tennis, Football, Boxing, Bowling, Ping Pong and Baseball) and retails for €40. Accessories include a bat and what looks like three spoons rackets. Yes, we’re calling it the “Ouii.”
Sigh.”
Friday France Photo: Giant Yellow Golf Ball Sculpture 
On a lighter note, here’s today’s France photo. It’s a sculpture we saw at the entrance of a tunnel I think somewhere in the vicinity of Montpellier. It’s not particularly attractive but it does get your attention, if anything.
Le Viaduc de Millau / The Millau Viaduct We hit the road last Sunday from Burgundy en route to Carcassonne in the south of France. We took a little detour to check out the Le Viaduc de Millau / Millau Viaduct, which was open to the public in 2005. I thought I’d share some photos.
To cross the viaduct you must pay a toll, which is higher during the summer! The summer rate is: 7.40 euros ($11.62) - and the non-summer rate is 5.60 euros ($8.79).
The actual bridge crossing is supported by the cables attached to the top of each tower, which is why, I supposed, they call it a “Cable-Stayed Bridge.” Probably the most common view of the viaduct is from this viewpoint (above).
The bridge connects the autoroute from Paris to Beziers at the point where it is bisected by the Tarn River, which runs through a wide gorge between two plateaus.
The Millau Viaduct took 4 years to build. It stands 280 meters (919 ft) tall (which is higher than the Eiffel Tower and is considered the highest bridge in the world) - and is 2.5 kilometers long (1.55 miles). It cost €394 million ($619 million) to construct.
Own a Paris Hotel, Apartment, Chambre d’hote, B&B or Gite? Get Listed here! 
A brand new website dedicated to Paris accommodations has recently launched and is looking for owners of hotels, apartments, gites, and chambres d’hotes (bed and breakfast) to be included on the site. If you know someone with a place to stay, please feel free to let them know about it.
Please register your Paris accommodation here.
Friday France Photos: Elevated House in Perigueux 
More adorable houses in France. This cute home reminds me of the elevated apartment we saw in Nevers.
This side faces the Isle River and has Perigueux’s famous cathedrale as a backdrop.
This side shows how to enter the house. I wonder where the ladder is.
Double Miles on Air France April 1 to June 15 From Forbes:
“From April 1 to June 15, Air France frequent flier members will receive double miles for flying a new route from Los Angeles’ LAX to Heathrow. Northwest/KLM WorldPerks members can receive up to 15,000 bonus miles for flying any of its three new routes by June 15, 2008. Members must register for the promotion before purchasing a ticket.”
Oops. No Hat for the Eiffel Tower 
Those opposing the new Eiffel Tower “hat” can breathe a sigh of relief. The new hat for the Eiffel Tower is a No-Go. Not only that, it was never a GO, nor part of a design competition; it was never approved for restructuring the famous landmark. WHO invented THAT story??
From nyt:
“David Serero, principal of Serero Architects, said in a telephone interview that his firm’s proposal was merely a spontaneous design it had submitted to the Eiffel Tower management group in view of the tower’s approaching 120th anniversary and, he said, was neither a response to a design competition nor solicited by the tower’s management.
The Guardian’s Web site reported Monday that the Eiffel Tower’s management group, the Société d’Exploitation de la Tour Eiffel, had approved a temporary restructuring of the observation platform, which would alter the tower’s overall shape. After the report was picked up by other news organizations, the management group said that it had never solicited a redesign and that it envisaged no changes to the tower’s appearance.
Mr. Serero said his firm submitted unsolicited designs and put them on the Web, where they were later seen by news organizations.”
Happy Easter from a Poussin au chocolat 
Cute Chocolate Chick (that disappeared quick(ly)) 
Bernigaud
Chocolaterie/Pâtisserie
18, rue de la République
58170 Luzy (Burgundy) France
Tel: 03.86.30.04.70
Ma Pomme Tao - Mixing Apples with Apple 
What do you get when you take my preferred computer platform, Macintosh - and mix it up with Vietnamese cuisine, a postcard perfect medieval French village and friendly service? Answer: My new favorite restaurant/Mac store in Sarlat!
I’m not kidding. This is a Mac Store AND a Vietnamese restaurant; yes, all in the same place. (Not an official Apple store, but a reseller.) What could be a better combination?
The awesome collective power of Mac and Southeast Asian food beckoned us to give Ma Pomme Tao a try and now a mention because it was one of those awesome and unique finds when wandering around France. Actually, I probably wouldn’t have mentioned it if the food was bad, which it wasn’t. In fact, the food was exquisite.
Most of the restaurants in Sarlat cater to the tourist looking for regional specialties like cassoulet, confit de canard, foie gras and other heavy yet yummy dishes from the southwest, but the beauty of Ma Pomme Tao, is that if you are in Sarlat for more than a few days, once in a while you will need something different: say, a store that sells Macs and iPods, oh and meal-wise, something other than meat slowly cooked and drenched in goose fat. Ma Pomme Tao was the refreshing alternative and offers all that, even vegetarian dishes; what a concept! Seriously. Vegetarian dishes are hard to find here.
We couldn’t wrangle our entire party of 6 to the restaurant, so we had to order out. More points go to Ma Pomme Tao for having take out! Everything we ordered was really excellent even the xung-xa (jelly) desserts they offered us for free. (What we ate: Vegetarian nems, shrimp nems, bo-bun, beef lemon lemongrass salad, crispy noodles and vegetables, the luc-lac beef, 5 spice pork meatballs, beef sate skewers, shrimp wrapped around sugar cane.)
Highly recommended.
Ma Pomme Tao
37, avenue Thiers
24200 Sarlat-la-Canéda France
+33 5 53 59 71 88
*reservations are required*
email: tao-la-cantine@orange.fr (restaurant)
email: postmaster@ma-pomme-tao.com (store)
Related: hotels in sarlat
A Wise Street in Perigeux 
We wondered if people walking down rue de la Sagesse (Street of Wisdom) in Perigeux realize there are words of wisdom at their disposal right under their noses.
To be more accurate, the words are right under their feet as they stroll down this tiny ruelle. If you see this statue of a very plump woman (actually, her face looks a lot like Jar Jar Banks with shorter ears from Star Wars), then you can take a walk down wisdom lane.
This was the only street in Perigeux that had these cute tiles.
Liberté = Freedom
Sagesse = Wisdom
Paroles en l’air = Idle Talk
Tout est Poésie = Everything is poetry
Nu comme un vers = Nude like a verse (which is more poetic than using the real saying of nu comme un ver / nude as a worm )
A vous de jouer = Your turn / It’s up to you.
Good thing we stumbled up them. The tile messages give you something to think about. (especially worms) So now we’re wiser. Maybe.
tags: france travel dordogne perigeux perigord hotels in dordogne
A Ch’ti Ch’tore in Perigord Just ignore my silly, rhyming title; I couldn’t resist.
There’s a cute boutique dedicated to our favorite French, Les Ch’ti (pronounced SHTEE) from the very north of France.
We were surprised while visiting the city of Périgueux (southwest France) when we saw this timely boutique, “La Ch’ti Boutic,” with all things Ch’ti. Since the Ch’tis are la tendance, this business-minded shtorekeeper shtepped up to the ch’plate to tempt his luck at Ch’ti Shtuff.
It’s filled with goodies like chuques (coffee candies filled with caramel), pardon bonbons sucrés au caramel (caramel candies), bière de Lens (beer from Lens), sac de charbon (sack of coal, which is actually candy), les bêtises de Cambrai (mints), spéculoos (gingerbread cookies) and more.
The boutique has only been in business for a few months, so I hope it lasts, even after all the Ch’ti madness had died down.
La Ch’ti Boutic
25, rue Limogeanne
24000 Périgueux France
Telephone: +33 5.53.03.22.59
Renting a House in Dordogne 
For about a week now, we’ve been back in the land of foie gras, confit de canard and truffles, at our favorite accommodations in Sarlat, which is in the southwest region of France called, Dordogne (in Perigord Noir) and - a couple of days ago, FINALLY, the sun was out!
Today is different, though, and there’s grisailles galore but since we’re here to work, the gray weather couldn’t be better.
It occurred to me that Au pre de l’arbre (independent fully equipped (self-catering) chalets in a forest) is a great place to escape to - from where ever you happen to be, and if absolutely necessary, (like us) take your work with you. On days like these you can be very productive.
Also worth noting is that it’s a great place to base yourself if you’re house hunting in the Dordogne area. Each of the rental houses here is fully equipped with high speed DSL and if you don’t want to bring your computer, you can use one provided by Au pre de l’arbre. They even have a list of real estate agents for you. That’s service if you ask me.
You don’t have to be workaholics like us, to stay here. Most of the people who come to Au pre de l’arbre are here to vacation: to explore the prehistoric drawings (Lascaux), to visit the wonderful villages (La Roque Gageac, Rocamadour, etc.) nearby, to participate in outdoor sports like rock climbing, horseback riding and canoeing - all within the unique backdrop of Dordogne’s signature stunning scenery. After a full day of travel, it’s a sigh of relief to come back to your comfortable chalet at Au pre de l’arbre. And then, take a swim in the gigantic pool that overlooks a forest.
The beautiful thing about Au pre de l’arbre is that it’s open all year ’round. We like to come outside of the busy season, but if you want to come during the summer, make sure to secure your reservations right about….NOW.
A note: You can stay for as short as a weekend or even longer term. And here’s a little secret: if you come during the low season, feel free to barter a bit with Marc to lower your rent. (I swear, he likes that!)
Au pre de l’arbre - Open all year
Website: Au pre de l’arbre (in English and French)
Nathalie et Marc Pinta-Tourret
Rue Lino Ventura, “Le Mas Cavaillé”
24200 Sarlat-la-Canéda
E-mail: sarlat@aupredelarbre.com
Phone / Fax : +33 5 53 59 33 33
Mobile: +33 6 73 79 12 87
Related to Dordgone: Sarlat, Terrasson, Plum Village, Beynac, Cassoulet, Big Door, Gourdon
tags: france, dordogne, dordogne holiday cottages, sarlat
Friday France Photo: Saint Laurent des Arbres, Provence 
Though a tiny, sleepy village in Provence, it’s a perfect place to stay while exploring the region. Make sure you go to the bakery in the morning. You’ll have to wait in line but you won’t be bored and you’ll actually wish the line would go slower. The villagers are friendly and will strike up a conversation with you. Additionally, one of the bakers, a perky and cheerful woman, keeps the crowd serenaded and entertained. She’s not a bad singer, either!
The Reason Why You Should Visit Avignon 
Yes. If this isn’t THE reason to visit Avignon, I dunno what is. Alright, I do and there are gobs of fabulous things to do and see here but this cuppa hot chocolate at the Salon de Thé in La Mirande Hotel is amazing. It is so silk-chocolaty and heavenly that you can see heaven in its reflection.
Ok, that’s really the reflection of the sky. We were sitting outside in their beautiful garden patio.
I think I may have to say that this hot chocolate is MUCH better than the one at Angelina in Paris. GASP! There, I said it.
Of course, while the waiting staff at La Mirande is great, they might not be as colorful in personality as the staff at Angelina.
La Mirande
(Hotel, Salon de Thé, Cooking School, Award-winning Restaurant)
4, place de la Mirande
84000 Avignon France
Telephone: +33 4 90 14 20 20
